It’s a well rounded end of week 3 in Nola, and as Hurricane Harvey pushes in to deluge the south into submission, I sit in EnVie Cafe on Decatur St drinking my cup o’ Joe. What a week it’s been, definitely worked my way into the lifestyle of this place, Nola has engulfed me in her kind, warm arms. Monday is supposed to be my last day with Taylor in his digs in Uptown/Carrolton, but I am so distracted I msg and say can we arrange more time. Taylor is pretty cool and I am totally flexible, he has several Airbnb rooms and a couch so we can work out anything. I work out a new place to stay over in Mandeville st, north of Claiborne, which is a totally sketchier neighbourhood but walkable to Frenchmen st and The French Quarter. It’s fine though, I think I’ve had enough time here that I definitely have a feel for it, and the rhythm of this city.
 | There definitely are elements of this city you don’t want to turn your back on, but my advice is to also not look away from it either. The evidence of the divide between rich tourists coming to get their rocks off, and some of the nameless poor that struggle on the streets in this city as blatantly obvious. America is a land of dichotomies, land of the free? of opportunity? For an Aussie (who is used to the differences being way more subtle and buried in the background) somewhere like New Orleans brings all those things to the forefront, where a city that thrives on tourist dollars, music and alcohol, a few blocks over the devastation that was Katrina is still |
| evident. Living closer to town, I walked a bit, but finally hired a bike. It’s badassed, single gear, back braking, cruiser…I should have hired or bought a second hand one when I got here. This city is flat, you and even if you lived a bit away from the hot spots it’s totally ride-able. It gives you a freedom, even at night, to just easily move about, you are also less of a target than if you are walking. Just make sure you get a great lock, as bikes get stolen all the time. |  |
 | I suggest Rhubarb Community Bike Shop as they sell 2nd hand bikes in the $40 - $100 range, and you can even fix up one of your own for a cheaper option. They run bike fixing workshops, and support the local community. They are in the 7th ward which is slightly loose neighbourhood, so you might want to Uber it there if you’ve just arrived. Gerken’s Bike Shop is on St Claude and is a great shop run by bikers, it’s pretty straight up, and they rent bikes for about $20/day. This city is flat, so even on a single gear cruiser you can easily get around and |
| see heaps of the city without having to worry about schedules, or the expense and wait for Ubers or a Taxi. You can just glide about checking out places you wouldn’t normally get to. If it showers, which it does, its fine you usually dry by the time you get there, or this social city has plenty of opportunities to just stop, have some food, a coffee, or a daiquiri while you wait for the rain to stop. |  |
I literally have stopped adding anything to my list now as it’s incredibly long and detailed… now with notes of people and places and soundtrack and memories. I feel I am starting to get sucked into this city and if I stay here much longer I fear I will never leave. I now know most of the scene, musos are starting to recognise me on the street, “Bassplayer, right?” ha, and the swing dance Krewe all know me for a chat and a dance now, doormen don’t ask me for ID, just warm nod. I chat with Rhonda the Doorwoman at Negril on Frenchmen st, I’ve been there a lot in the last few weeks, and saw a great blues act there on Wed night. Rhonda is a badass, not only does she do door, she does bass as well. The Professor (on bass) invites her up to do a spot, she funks and slaps it up like a champ! it seems everyone local in this town has at least 4 talents and then there is the other stuff they do! I think I would fit right in… ha ha
 | Monday I intend on heading out to jams & such, but get invited to an open mic comedy night, so decide to do something different as it’s at Siberia, one of the other places on my list. The comedy is hit and miss, as good open mic should be, but there definitely are some gem belly laughs in there, new material, and Cheeso the dog with his semi-naked assistant. There’s a great mix of new and established comedians, short punchy sets, some that fall over, some quirky, and a host that charms his way around what is a throughly entertaining night. It is interspersed with a few small burlesque acts which breaks up the random. |
 | Tues get the most amazing seafood poutine @ St Roch Markets (it’s a great new but resented gentrification of that area), the place used to be a historic french growers and seafood market, and now its food places and a lunch bar, refurbished after languishing for many years after Katrina. |  |
| Head out tues night to the strip, and catch random bands at The Apple Barrel, a funk band @ The Blue Nile and buy their CD. Randomly that night also a huge parade of bikes storm Frenchmen St with LED spokey dokes, I’m not sure if it’s an official parade, or just a random night tour, or some flash mob…lots of battery-powered sound systems and well lit bikes, this is a bike friendly city, cars actually give way to bikes and there are no helmet laws. I see a bluesy groove rock band @ Cafe Negril and have a late night Catfish Gordita with sour cream and avocado. |  |
Late that night, end up at the Apple Barrell, and meet Windex Pete who is playing is washboard with 2 metal forks outside to the funky bluesy tunes.. soon he is joined by the bassplayer on the street who has a wireless lead system (and it’s a slow tues), soon a few tourist are partying with them, dancing and Windex Pete is encouraging everyone one to have a go at the washboard with various drunken versions of success/failure… ha ha
 | Wed sleep in til late, it’s getting hectic, move my stuff over to my new digs, in Mandeville St. Have a great conversation with Taylor about music, touring and things, pay him what I owe him and say goodbye, it’s been a great place to stay in Jeanette St Uptown. The Uptown area, Snake & Jakes, Maple Leaf Bar, Zotz Cafe and all of the Oak St area are worth a look if you are in Nola. If you are wondering about areas, it’s best to just look for Airbnbs near cafe areas etc and they are usually fairly safe. The further you get into suburbia the more likely it is to be a devastated, dodgier area. |
| Thur learn how to actually do laundry New Orleans style, Melba’s is a 24hour food joint with laundry. Huge industrial sized machines spin constantly, as you walk thru to the cafe/bar, a huge selection of Gumbos, Po’Boys, CharBroiled Burgers, Philly Voodoo, Shrimp and Catfish plate, Grits, Redbeans and rice…which I stupidly order the large size, which of course is enough for 2 meals… and wash it down with a Dirty Banana from the line of slushy machines serving daiquiris (it’s the New Orleans way). |  |
Head out and catch a few groups/bands, trios, brass, funk, they are all starting to blurr into one… New Orleans is just one great pot of venues, night after night, day after day of bands playing various times, all day, every day. It’s crazy to think that a place of this small size can support so many musicians and venues. Some venues have 3 bands a day, lunch arvo shift, evening shift and late night shift. Pretty much live entertainment for about 12 hours a day in many venues within walkable distance of each other. Crazy when you think about Sydney or Wollongong in comparison.
Friday finally have a huge breakdown of finances, can’t withdraw money anywhere… card seemingly locked out, money is in the account after checking on the internet. Perhaps it hasn’t clicked over internationally, try to find affiliate bank, still doesn’t work. Ha! broke in the City! luckily in Nola you can just hang on the street and the entertainment comes to you. Check some touristy things walk by all the tarot card readers at St Louis Cathedral/Jackson Park, wander the endless FQuarter streets full of life and crud. After some more street brass band jazz on Frenchmen St, head home for a movie and an earlier night in.
 | Sat sought out finances after a bit of wrangling with my new mobile ph to get it to be able to call Australia, then the Westpac, to find that even though I had notified them of all the travel, that one random small transaction had put a hold on my account. Head out on bikes with Tomahawk who we arranged to meet up and go out to dinner and a really amazing place. |  |
Delicious Wild Mushroom Gnocchi starter, Blackened Redfish, Shrimp and Grits, with sides of Sweet Potato mash and grilled Asparagus, and a great wine. We decided to get a bit dressed up, the first time that I have pulled out the Damn Fine outfit on this entire trip, and lucky I did as Tomahawk is gorgeous in a vintage pink ruffled summer dress, but is still funky enough to rock up on her vintage bicycle. We cycle around the city afterwards and she shows me a few places I haven’t been before. When your guide to the city is this funky, social and sexy, the city that never stops, is such an appealing place.
 | Sunday is Chicken & Waffles, I kid you not… fried chicken and waffles topped with cucumber, live trios playing jazz @ The Spotted Cat Liqour & Food (different to the other Spotted Cat Music Venue), finally the storm is brewing from Hurricane Harvey… the forecast is for rain the next whole week… Gulp! I head out to Allways lounge again finally for a great night of swing dancing, and even get a few compliments on my leading/style. I think just because I am different to the local dancers (and I actually really carefully pick the songs that I dance, for tempo and style). It’s been a great week, awesome happenings and wonderful connections to a place I will never forget. I could definitely live in this place. |
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The next week became a blur, stirring the pot with many of my new friends, and getting to more gigs and dances in all my favourite venues. Highlights were getting into Preservation Hall with Tomahawk to see the best and most authentic New Orleans jazz musicians! amazing gig in a hall that literally played the first jazz gigs…(I thought it was going to be a huge concert hall, but it was a tiny un-aircondiitioned hall the size of a lounge room, and so hard to book in for)
| Also checked a few more venues off my list like Fritzles on Burbon St, one of the only good jazz joints left on that strip, everynight of the week are some great players playing the highest level of swing jazz in small quartets, and dueling karaoke piano players @ Pat O’Briens, request ANY song and they play it, and you have to sing along, complete with outdoor flaming fountain in the beer garden and long rifles strung in the hallway ceiling. Checked out another jazzer on Burbon st, which was a bit grungier but still preserving New Orleans jazz style, The Maison. This place has way too many things, you would have to live a lifetime here to soak it all in in good time, I’m just glad I have some great new friends here, and an informed list that lead me to all the best quality joints that Nola has to offer. |  |
 | I spend the last few nights craving and dreading the idea that I will have to eventually leave this place. I have fallen in love with all that New Orleans has to offer, there is nothing like New Orleans in Australia, maybe even the world. If you are a musician or someone who adventures life, it must be on your list of life “To Do’s” as this city has no equal. Other times-in-places evoke a vibe, but New Awlins IS vibe. And a special mention goes out to some of the friendliest people I have jammed with and met, without those special guides in my life I would never have had such a delicious time! |
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| I ride my bike a few more times, at night just to see some more of the city, see one of the houses that Degas lived in (in europe I saw many of his paintings), check some neighbourhoods, cruising around like a local, I find it would be easy to fit right in in this amazing place. Have one last meal @ Coops, Shrimp Creole with a side of creole Green Beans in spicy sauce. I’m sure there are many other things and touristy things that I should have done in this place, but this trip was about connection, and music, and giving my music making another perspective on where my musical experience and loves come from. Nola did just that, and has changed me forever. |  |
The tastes, the music, the dancing, the pure exhilaration of this place makes it one of America’s must visit locations. These are some mighty big boots to fill, other musical cities… I’ll keep you posted on how they compare. I’ve now hired a car, and road tripping to other cities, TEXAS here I come...
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